“You are what you eat” is a saying that is truer today than it was years ago!
‘YOU ARE WHAT YOU EAT’ APPLIES TO WOOD COOKING
Summary of You Are What you Eat
Healthy eating recipes, eat smart with Bark free cooking wood, cooking wood as a food ingredient is a clean eating basic. Responsibly sourced wood and only using heartwood Hardwoods avoids what woods are toxic to humans. Please remember you are what you eat when it comes to smoke flavor in food and your sourced wood.
We’ve all heard it, likely from our mothers. You are what you eat. If you truly understand the meaning of the statement, you know that we extract necessary nutrients from the foods we ingest to energize and stabilize our bodies. The nutritional content of what we eat determines the composition of our cell membranes, bone marrow, blood, and hormones. Every day we lose cells which is why the foods we consume are so vital to our body’s health.
Like Any Other Food Choice
If you’ve been a follower of my writings then you are aware of the stress I put on recognizing the wood used to cook foods is just as important an ingredient as the cut of meat, choice of spices, quality of oil, etc. There has been a lot of focus on the origin of food and how important it is to source locally both as a means of supporting local business and to control what you’re putting in your body. From our perspective, you want to know that the wood used for cooking is sourced close to the growing area. This ensures that there is knowledge about how the wood is processed before it gets to you and it assures the freshest product.
Minimal Processing
Just as with the clean food concept which focuses on minimally processed foods and as direct from nature as possible, SmokinLicious® holds to the same approach. Sourcing wood from forest regions (direct from nature) that are in close proximity to our manufacturing facility, provides us with the unique advantage to process into the various cooking products the hardwoods harvested that meet our strict criteria: 100% bark-free (we don’t allow any bark-on product to cross our threshold), 100% heartwood (no outer cores of the tree cross our threshold), harvested hardwood that is less than 6 months of age (ensures this is still a “green” product), chemical-free (no pesticide or growth enhancement techniques employed), and in raw state to allow us to process it into a suitable cooking wood size.
The Risks
If you love foods that are cooked with wood, then you should know a few specifics to keep you on the path to health and long life.
Hardwoods only!
Softwoods or coniferous woods should never be used for cooking as they have elevated sap levels and more air in their cell structure. This causes them to burn fast, produce lots of sparks, and unpleasant flavors that are not ideal for flavoring foods. These include pine, redwood, cedar, fir, spruce, hemlock, larch, cypress.
Toxicity Risks:
There are many known toxicities in certain species of wood with softwoods containing the highest risk. Other woods have the potential to cause sickness and in some cases death if a person’s system is already compromised. Most of the risks are associated with the cooking process rather than the ingestion of the actual wood-fired food. But know that if a balance of the wood-tar creosote is not found, then the ingestible risks of the food heighten. One of the best means of obtaining a balance is by starting with hardwoods that are considered safe for cooking, are clean, are bark-free, and derive from the inner cores rather than outer of the wood, where more impurities lurk.
Cooking Technique Influence Risk:
At some point, I’m sure you’ve read about heterocyclic amines (HCAs) and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs). These are the chemicals that form when meats, poultry, and fish are cooked using higher temperature methods like grilling. Why does this pose a health risk? Because these chemicals cause changes in DNA and when you change DNA and they are metabolized by specific enzymes in the body, you can increase the risk of cancer associated with these compounds. There is no definitive link between HCA and PAH exposure from cooked meats and cancer in humans. There is no way to differentiate between other exposures to the chemicals from the food exposure.
HCAs are found to only be associated with meat cooked at high temperatures. While PAHs can be found in other smoked foods. Remember, PAHs are also in cigarette smoke and fumes from car exhaust. A recommendation is to remove any charred portions of meat, continuously turning meat over the high heat source, and avoiding direct exposure of meat to the open flame to reduce exposure. Here’s a tip that can also reduce the risk of forming HCAs – marinate your foods for at least 10 minutes.
Tips from the Electric-Smoker Guy about electric smokers, reviews and how to choose the best unit. Read this and his blog to guide you in looking for a good quality smoker, purchasing electric smokers, analog smokers or digital smokers!
You don’t have to be an expert to prepare a perfectly smoked meat if you have the best electric-smoker by your side. Now, you have to be aware that you can’t just come into the store and ask for the best electric-smoker because that doesn’t exist.
The best unit for me and for you doesn’t have to be the same model and that is why it is important to know what to look for. You don’t have to be modest, there are many electric units on the market which means that you can adjust almost every part of the smoker to your needs.
If you don’t know where to start, let me guide you through the process of picking one for you.
#1 Choose the Capacity of an “Electric-Smoker”
The size of the smoker is the most important feature you can adjust because there is no need for buying a big electric smoker if you are smoking only for your family. If you want to smoke for your family and friends, go with the medium smoker and if you want to smoke for a large group of people, then I would suggest you take a look at the commercial-grade electric models.
#2 Choose the Place for Your “Electric-Smoker”
An electric smoker has to be outside and you can’t smoke in the kitchen if you don’t have a special ventilation, which most homes don’t. Choose a place for it and see if it can stay there all the time. That place should be protected from the wind, the rain and under a roof. If you don’t have that place, buy a smoker with wheels so you can take it out of the garage to smoke it and store it again when you are done.
#3 Choose the Features for Your “Electric-Smoker”
If this is your first smoker, choose the one that has a window on the doors so you can see the smoking process. That is very important, especially for rookies who aren’t sure what smoking does to the meat and how long it takes for the meat to be done. If you are constantly opening the door of the smoker you will lose smoke and the heat. That will prolongate the smoking process a lot. The window on the door should be from tempered glass to withstand the heat and it mustn’t be easy to break.
#4 Choose the Controller
The electric smoker can be analog and digital. The analog smoker shows you the temperature on a temperature gauge and it is not so easy to control it. The electric units, on the other side, are easier to control. You have to set the time and the temperature you want and the smoker will maintain the same temperature through the entire smoking process.
As you can see, smoking is not just picking the first smoker you see in the store and buying it. If you buy a good quality smoker you will be able to control the heat and the smoke better when using smoking wood chips, chunks, logs or dust and that will result in a good smoked meat. If you choose the best electric smoker you won’t have to do anything, the smoker will do most of the hard work. But, if you want to learn more about these electric units you can visit the site about them called the Electric-Smoker Guy:
Does stainless steel rust? This is a common question asked by many.
by Linda Colon
Our Guest blogger discusses Stainless Steel, does stainless steel rust in outdoor appliances. Tips on how to care for stainless steel outdoor kitchen units. She explains active metals and passive metals in stainless steel grill and to avoid hard water, wire brushes, steel pads and only use non-abrasive cleaning tools.
Myth: Stainless steel does not rust.
Myth Busted: Unfortunately, stainless steel is susceptible to rusting.
Here is a little background to help you understand why this myth has created confusion for the metals world.
First, let’s take a look at the difference between active and passive metals. Metals such as iron and steel easily corrode – showing yellow or orange rust – within the natural environment and are called active metals.
The two grades of stainless steel most referenced in relation to outdoor environments are 304 and 316L, also known as marine-grade stainless steel. Their numbers are determined by their alloy composition. Unlike the active metals mentioned above, stainless steel is referred to as passive because it contains other metals including chromium. For a material to be considered stainless steel, at least 10.5% of the make-up must be chromium. Additional alloys typically include nickel, titanium, aluminum, copper, nitrogen, phosphorous, selenium and molybdenum. The key difference between the 304 and the 316L is the addition of molybdenum in the 316L. It is the molybdenum that enhances corrosion resistance in environments rich in salt air and chloride – giving 316L the moniker of “marine grade” stainless steel.
It is also important to note that stainless steel is not stain proof; it’s stainless. As such, regardless of whether you use 304 or 316L exposed stainless-steel cabinetry and appliances requires maintenance. The addition of molybdenum (in marine grade stainless steel) only delays corrosion, it does not stop it.
The chromium contained within stainless steel creates an invisible passive film covering the steel surface and shielding against corrosion. As long as the invisible film – or passive layer – remains intact, the metal remains stainless and corrosion resistant.
However, three things can break down this film:
Mechanical abrasion – steel pads, wire brushes and scrapers will scratch the steel surface.
Water – depending on where you live, your water can be hard or soft. Hard water may leave spots and, when heated, leave deposits behind. These can break down the passive layer leaving the stainless steel to rust. Be sure to remove deposits from food preparation and service.
Chlorides – are found everywhere including in water, food and table salt. Household and industrial cleaners contain some of the worst chlorides!
There are many types of corrosion that affect stainless steel metals. Corrosion mechanisms fall into five different categories; pitting corrosion, crevice corrosion, galvanic corrosion, stress-corrosion Cracking, and general corrosion.
Pitting corrosion happens to stainless steel when it is exposed to environments that contain chlorides.
Crevice corrosion is triggered when oxygen levels are low in a crevice.
Galvanic corrosion happens when dissimilar metals come into contact with another.
Stress corrosion cracking is when tensile stresses combine with environmental conditions.
General corrosion happens when the stainless steels pH is less than 1.
So, does stainless steel rust?
The answer: Yes, how quickly is determined by the type of stainless steel the outdoor appliances and cabinets are made of.
By keeping the stainless steel surfaces free from food and other debris, following these cleaning tips for outdoor kitchen cabinets will help maintain your cabinets integrity and reduce the risk of rusting and corrosion:
Use only alkaline, alkaline-chlorinated or non-chloride cleaners
Avoid hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid) on your stainless steel
Always use a non-abrasive cleaning tool such as a soft cloth or plastic scouring pad
Avoid steel pads, wire brushes, and scrapers
Always clean in the direction of the polishing marks by locating the lines or grain and scrub in a motion parallel to them
If you do end up using a chlorinated cleaner, be sure to rinse thoroughly and dry it, immediately
Air dry your equipment
Remember, our stainless steel equipment is not stain-proof, it is stainless.
